Reflecting on Beijing 2008

I’ve been back in the US for about four days now, and believe it or not — I’m beginning to miss China. The politics, lifestyle, even the food I can live without, but the people — I miss the locals most of all. There have been many questions about my experience — from the immigration officer at the Chicago airport (it went beyond the obligatory business/pleasure question) to my family and friends back home — I’ve answered them several times before, but I will answer them here as well.

Q: Well, how was Beijing? Should I go?

A: After spending two months living in Beijing, I’d hesitate to recommend the city to tourists looking to soak up Chinese history and culture. Sure — there’s plenty of that in Beijing, but there’s so much more to China that you won’t be able to see through Beijing’s environmental and propaganda haze. I came to tolerate life in the city towards the end of my journey, but only because the Olympics were in town, and many familiar Western conveniences became available, such as an Apple Store and Cold Stone. Unless you speak Mandarin, communication with locals is almost always impossible. Some are learning limited English, but are unable to pronounce words correctly due to a lack of native speakers to practice with.

For photographers, Beijing can be a great place to shoot on clear days, but unfortunately, the sun only breaks through the clouds every so often. If you’re only in town for a week, you may not have a single day without a hazy blanket to get in the way of you and that perfect shot. The Chinese make incredible subjects, and are generally more open to photographers than Westerners. Unfortunately, I think much of this comes from a fear of confrontation, especially when they’re unable to communicate with the foreigner behind the camera.

Q: What was it like to work at the Olympics?

A: I can’t even begin to describe the Olympic experience – it was so incredible to be able to work alongside the world’s top photographers, reporters, and athletes. Just being around the athletes was a thrill – there were so many, from almost every country in the world. There were also plenty of opportunities for staff and journalists to mingle with athletes outside of the competition venues, especially towards the end of the Games.

I had a fantastic time working at the Olympics, and would do it again in a heartbeat. I’ve never been around people from so many diverse cultures at one time, and I really enjoyed watching how each responded to life in Beijing differently. The athletes and journalists rarely left the Olympic venues to explore the city, but when they did, I was more than happy to act as their guide.

During the first week of competition, I answered questions for photographers at the road cycling course (and ended up doing quite a bit of computer troubleshooting as well). A few days after road cycling, I transferred to indoor volleyball, where I worked as a flash quotes reporter, interviewing athletes in the mixed zone alongside reporters from around the world. Often, we had to work through translators — it was really an experience unlike any other.

Q: Can I work at Vancouver 2010 or London 2012?

A: Honestly, I’m not quite sure. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) required the Beijing Organizing Committee (BOCOG) to hire native English speakers from overseas only because very few were qualified in China. Fortunately for the next Winter and Summer Games, that’s not the case — both will be held in countries where English is the official language. If you’re an expert with relevant experience, feel free to contact VANOC or LOCOG for more information about joining their staffs during the Games. I’d certainly recommend giving it a shot — working at the Olympics is an experience like no other.

I have a few regrets about my experience in China. Some are less significant, and were only realized when I read the United Airlines magazine on the flight back to the States. I can’t believe I spent two months in Beijing and only visited half of the locations they suggested in their cover article. I never made it to the restaurant, Made in China, but I certainly heard great things. My biggest regret, however, is not taking more time to travel around the country. I visited Shanghai and Tianjin, and made a side trip to the suburbs with Vincent Laforet, but I really wish I had taken more time in the beginning of my trip to explore other parts of the country. Some friends flew to see pandas in their native habitat near Chengdu, or visited the Terracotta Army at Xi’an. I’d love to visit China again at some point in the near future — but I don’t think Beijing will make it on my itinerary.

This marks my final post to Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics. Thanks for visiting, and feel free to continue sending questions or adding your comments to individual posts.

A Picture Perfect Blue Sky

I couldn’t believe my eyes as I woke up this morning. On the nicest day of my two months in Beijing, I witnessed a miracle — bright sunshine with a clear, blue sky. I made use of the bright direct sunlight, and escaped the volleyball venue for the Olympic Green as quickly as possible. I witnessed a vibrant sunset light the Bird’s Nest, followed by a clear view of the moon a few hours later. Olympic tourists were taking advantage of the brilliant light as well, posing for portraits in the golden sun on the Green.

This wasn’t my first sunny day in Beijing, but it was probably the clearest. Visibility was unrestricted, with a clear view of the mountains surrounding the city. Today’s weather definitely had a positive effect on locals and tourists alike — everyone seemed to enjoy the sunlight, and the Olympic Green was more packed than ever. Throughout the day, I overheard visitors crediting yesterday’s rain for the clear sky today, but past rains have not yielded such incredible results. I have less than a week left in China, but I’m hopeful that we’ll have another day as incredible as today before next weekend hits.

Have Some Free Time?

Most of the photographers I’ve met have been shooting back-to-back events every day since the Games began almost two weeks ago. Rising early and working late into the evening, any free time they have is spent catching up on needed sleep. There are a few exceptions, however. For photographers with some downtime or those staying in Beijing until next week, here’s my top five list of things to do and shoot in the area, far from the Olympic Green.

1. Take the train to Tianjin — The coastal city of Tianjin is located 120 km east of Beijing, but a new high-speed train will zip you from the capital to the coast in just under 30 minutes. You’ll need at least half a day to explore, especially if you plan to shoot at the “beach.” The ocean excursion is pricey (about 160 CNY r/t including taxi and light rail), but the incredible pictures you’ll be able to make there make it well worth the time and money.

2. Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City — Several photographers I’ve spoken to haven’t even had time to visit the world’s largest public square, or the Forbidden City. If you have a few hours free, visit both, but if you can only spare an hour or two, head to Tiananmen Square to shoot tourists and locals enjoying the recently constructed Olympic displays.

3. Eat Chinese food — Under immense pressure to stay healthy so they can produce images, experienced photographers are avoiding eating anything outside of the media village, Main Press Center, or Olympic venues. While this makes sense, they’re really missing out on some incredible Chinese food. Peking duck roll ups (available for 15 Yuan at the MPC) aren’t going to cut it — experience the real thing at Quanjude, or visit a hole in the wall eatery to enjoy Chinese food at its best (and cheapest).

4. Wander the city on your own — Escape the Olympics bubble to meet locals in the hutongs, or roam the streets with a camera in the older parts of town. Don’t worry about having a plan — take the subway away from the Olympic Green, and get off at a random stop. If you don’t like what you see, simply hop back on and go somewhere else — you’ll also be able to make great pictures on the train.

5. Bring back some goodies — You can’t return from China without gifts for family and friends, so visit one of the city’s markets to bargain hard for souvenirs. Jade and pearls are very popular, as are calligraphy paintings, chopstick sets, and knock off clothing. Visit the Pearl Marketfor pearls (and sometimes jade) and the Tianya market (literally a few feet away) for everything else. Tianya is also a great place to shoot locals gathered around televisions to watch the Olympics.

A Master At Work

Many budding photographers find work as assistants to those well established in the field before setting off on their own. A young photographer myself, I decided to take this opportunity at the Olympics to meet photographers and observe how they work, and I’m always amazed at how much I’m able to learn. Yesterday, I shadowed former New York Times staffer Vincent Laforet, currently on assignment for Newsweek.

Vince told me about a shot he had in mind several days ago, and asked where we could go to make it work. After a dozen phone calls and text messages to a translator familiar with the area, we settled on the town of Changping, located in the Changping District of Beijing, a suburb northwest of the city. The translator and I met at my hotel, hired a cab for the night, and headed over to pick up Vince near the Olympic Green.

After what seemed like an hour of driving, we arrived at a village near the Ming Tombs, a popular tourist attraction. We wandered down alleyways for 20 minutes, trying to talk to locals and searching for Vince’s shot — Chinese gathered around a television to watch the Olympics in a rural area near Beijing. We saw some homes that might have worked, but decided to keep looking.

A few minutes later, a man wearing a volunteer shirt approached us on his moped, and our translator asked him for advice on where to shoot. Our translator later identified him as the town’s leader — to my surprise, he was incredibly helpful, and seemed to have a general understanding of why we were there. We began to follow the “volunteer” as curious locals joined our entourage. Eventually, Vince settled on a group of three people eating dinner and watching television in a tiny grocery store.

I liked the shot, but it still wasn’t exactly what he was looking for, so we grabbed our cabbie and headed back to Beijing a few minutes later. After leaving the store, we noticed that an even larger crowd had formed — about 20 people in total, including a well-dressed woman who looked very out of place. The woman was asking many questions, and our translator later identified her as a leader of the Changping district, who had been informed of our arrival.

By the time we reached the city, our cab fare had reached 278 CNY (about $42) — most of my fares in Beijing are less than one tenth of that amount, and our translator was fascinated by the high number on the meter. 330 CNY later (luckily, Vince had paid), I arrived back at my hotel, to prepare for another day in the Olympics bubble. In the end, Vince wasn’t able to get the picture he had wanted, but we plan to give it another shot in a few days.

Visit Newsweek’s “Visions of China” blog for Laforet’s in-depth account of the evening.

Day Trip: Tianjin by Train

A new high-speed train opened this month, linking Beijing with the coastal city of Tianjin. With a top speed of 350 km/h, the 120 km journey was cut from 70 minutes to just under 30. But a day in Tianjin will require far more than an hour of travel time, as the newly constructed train stations that serve the Beijing/Tianjin route are far from major attractions in either city.

Last night marked the end of Olympic football events at Tianjin stadium, but a visit to the Pacific coastline or seafood restaurants can still justify a day trip. Photographer Kevin German and I made our way to the city yesterday afternoon. The coastline, although far from attractive, is a great place to visit for photographers wanting to escape the tourist traps of Beijing in search of a more authentic Chinese experience. Locals travel to the coast, accessible only by car, to enjoy a day by the sea — but sand and clear waters are nowhere to be found.

The waterfront is lined with litter, and the water is a light shade of brown — but the Chinese I saw were still having a good time, swimming in the arguably unsafe water and riding on small boats.

There was also plenty of patriotism along the coast, with cars and flagpoles alike bearing the Chinese flag.

Our 30-minute trip to the shore at Haibin Avenue cost 150-Yuan roundtrip (about $22) from the Tanggu light rail station — about 45 minutes from the city center. The cost of the 15-minute trip from the train station to the light rail was 20 Yuan (about $3). Our Tianjin excursion was motivated by an opportunity to see the Chinese women’s football team play Japan, but I mixed up the venues — the Chinese team did play last night, but in Qinhuangdao, another coastal city near Beijing. Instead, we watched Brazil beat Norway, in a venue filled to a generously estimated 40% capacity.

We had a great day in the city — and witnessed one of the highlights just before our return trip to Beijing. Hundreds of locals packed the brand new Tianjin train station, sitting on the floor with their eyes glued to two huge television screens as they watched China vs. USA women’s volleyball. Even as the final trains of the evening began to board, the spectators didn’t budge — they were there only to watch the competition, with no plans to travel.

Two Weeks to Explore

Yesterday was my last day working for Photo Services at the Olympics, as the time trial was the final event at the road cycling course. Although getting information for photographers was often difficult (more on that with tomorrow’s post), and communicating with Chinese volunteers proved a challenge, I really appreciated having the opportunity to work as an international volunteer for BOCOG.

Yesterday was a long workday — we boarded the shuttle to the Great Wall around 6 a.m. and didn’t return home until just before 11 p.m. — but it was great being able to work with photographers from around the world, and to watch six athletes join the ranks of Olympic medalists. I also had some time to watch the time-trial from the finish line, and saw both medal ceremonies from only a few feet away. I watched photographers make their way to the front to capture cyclist Kristin Armstrong (USA) as she received her gold medal, and sang our national anthem as the Star-Spangled Banner played for all in attendance.

After the second medal ceremony, I bumped (literally) into Chris Detrick, a college friend and photographer at the Salt Lake Tribune. I hadn’t seen Chris in about a year, so it was great seeing him on my (temporary) home turf. Over the past couple weeks, I’ve had an opportunity to meet some of the world’s best photographers as they passed through our photo workroom, and it was a privilege being able to enjoy the Olympics alongside them on the course.

BOCOG told my group of international volunteers that we would be working until the end of the Games, so we have some unexpected downtime before our flight home on August 28. The next few weeks will be spent exploring Beijing and the surrounding areas with photographers, and attending Olympic events. If you have any tips on cool places to visit, or have any questions about the city, please feel free to let me know.

Killer Beijing Photo Blogs

I spent my first five weeks in Beijing as a lone wolf, without a single other photo-related Olympics blog on the web. But with hundreds of web savvy photogs in town for the Games, there are some incredible new photography blogs out there — some provide an inside look at Olympics photography, while others show the China you won’t see on NBC.

Kevin German hosts one of the best Beijing photo blogs, and he doesn’t even have an Olympics credential. Posts to “Wandering Light” date back well before Kevin’s arrival in Beijing, but the Vietnam-based freelance photographer came to spend the month of August in the Chinese capital, exploring a new part of the city each day. I wasn’t familiar with Kevin’s work before he came to Beijing, but this is one photographer that has earned a permanent home on my blogroll.

Photo by Kevin German.

I’ve been following Vincent Laforet’s work for the last few years, and his Beijing Olympics photography doesn’t disappoint. Vince has the ability to see potential photographs that most would overlook, which combined with technical perfection, enables him to capture jaw-dropping images. The New York-based freelance photographer is on contract with the New York Times, but is representing Newsweek while in Beijing.

Eric Seals is new to the Olympics game, but his work with the Detroit Free Press has taken him on several overseas assignments, including a stint covering the war in Iraq. Yesterday afternoon, I had an opportunity to spend a few hours showing Eric the city, shopping at various knockoff markets and trying some Beijing street food. To my surprise, he’s as good at bargaining for souvenirs as he is at shooting Michael Phelps win gold.

Stay tuned for more featured Beijing Olympics blogs, and check out our blogroll to the left, or post a comment if you discover an Olympics blog that you’d like to share. Please limit posts to blogs related to the Olympics — links to other blogs and websites will be removed.

SLR Cameras Allowed at Olympic Venues

A few weeks ago, I was originally told with 100% certainty, and confirmed on BOCOG’s website, that professional photography equipment would not be allowed into the Olympic venues. Recently, however, I noticed that professional photography equipment wasn’t on the banned list at the venues, so today I decided to try my luck at bringing an SLR through security.

I had a general admission beach volleyball ticket for this morning, so I packed my Olympus E-520, 12-60mm f/2.8-4 lens, and 1.4x teleconverter in a large messenger bag, and headed over to the Chaoyang Park Beach Volleyball Ground. Before I went through security, I took the camera out of the bag and ran it through the x-ray machine individually, so there wouldn’t be any chance of it sneaking through without someone noticing. They noticed my E-520, but handed it back to me after it passed through the belt. One guard even complimented my choice of equipment.

Once I was in the venue, I spent the first few minutes shooting from my upper level seat, before walking down to an empty seat in the front row. I shot an entire game from directly behind a photo position, only a few feet from the court. When the seat’s occupant returned, I went up to a camera platform, and was even allowed to shoot from there without security asking any questions. I never took out my credential the whole time, and was not wearing a photo vest.

A friend also told me today that he was able to enter the Olympic Green with a Nikon D300 and 17-55mm f/2.8 lens, without any questions from security. He didn’t bring his gear into any of the venues on the Green, but noted that spectators only pass through security when they first enter the Olympic Common Domain, not before entering individual venues. Please post a comment if you’ve successfully brought equipment into other venues, but at this point I don’t anticipate any issues.

SLR To Beach Volleyball Tomorrow

I haven’t received any confirmation from readers regarding whether or not they’ve been able to bring SLR cameras into the Olympic venues as spectators, but your emails and comments have not gone unnoticed. I scored a general admission beach volleyball ticket for tomorrow morning, and will be bringing along my Olympus E-520 and 12-60mm f/2.8-4 lens, and leaving the Olympic credential at home.

While at the match, I don’t plan on staying put in my seat, but will try to shoot all around the venue — assuming I can get my camera through security. I’m taking a chance by bringing the SLR — my hotel is well over an hour from the beach volleyball venue — but I’m fairly optimistic that I’ll be able to get through with my E-520. Check back tomorrow for more information, and hopefully confirmation that SLR cameras will be allowed into the venues.

Take Picture Please

After five weeks in China, I’ve appeared in dozens of photos with Chinese — perhaps even 100 or more. I figured by now, with thousands of Westerners in the city, the excitement would have worn off — but it seems that we’re in even higher demand than before. Wherever I go, from Olympic venues to the Great Wall, locals and Chinese tourists alike stop me, asking if I will pose for a picture with them.

But yesterday, it was a pair of Germans who were caught in the spotlight, drawing a significant crowd at Tiananmen Square. They weren’t celebrities, or athletes — they weren’t even wearing a prized Olympic credential — they were just there, sitting on the ground, trying to capture ambient sound with an audio recorder. Chinese lined up to have their picture taken with them — the plainly dressed couple humored their new fans for about 20 minutes, with several failed attempts to stand up and walk away, before they eventually had enough time to escape.

If you’re dying to know what it feels like to be a celebrity, head to Tiananmen and stand in one place for a few moments — or, if you’re really feeling adventurous, take a seat near a group of tourists, and watch the point & shoots and camera phones fly out of their holsters.