Reflecting on Beijing 2008

I’ve been back in the US for about four days now, and believe it or not — I’m beginning to miss China. The politics, lifestyle, even the food I can live without, but the people — I miss the locals most of all. There have been many questions about my experience — from the immigration officer at the Chicago airport (it went beyond the obligatory business/pleasure question) to my family and friends back home — I’ve answered them several times before, but I will answer them here as well.

Q: Well, how was Beijing? Should I go?

A: After spending two months living in Beijing, I’d hesitate to recommend the city to tourists looking to soak up Chinese history and culture. Sure — there’s plenty of that in Beijing, but there’s so much more to China that you won’t be able to see through Beijing’s environmental and propaganda haze. I came to tolerate life in the city towards the end of my journey, but only because the Olympics were in town, and many familiar Western conveniences became available, such as an Apple Store and Cold Stone. Unless you speak Mandarin, communication with locals is almost always impossible. Some are learning limited English, but are unable to pronounce words correctly due to a lack of native speakers to practice with.

For photographers, Beijing can be a great place to shoot on clear days, but unfortunately, the sun only breaks through the clouds every so often. If you’re only in town for a week, you may not have a single day without a hazy blanket to get in the way of you and that perfect shot. The Chinese make incredible subjects, and are generally more open to photographers than Westerners. Unfortunately, I think much of this comes from a fear of confrontation, especially when they’re unable to communicate with the foreigner behind the camera.

Q: What was it like to work at the Olympics?

A: I can’t even begin to describe the Olympic experience – it was so incredible to be able to work alongside the world’s top photographers, reporters, and athletes. Just being around the athletes was a thrill – there were so many, from almost every country in the world. There were also plenty of opportunities for staff and journalists to mingle with athletes outside of the competition venues, especially towards the end of the Games.

I had a fantastic time working at the Olympics, and would do it again in a heartbeat. I’ve never been around people from so many diverse cultures at one time, and I really enjoyed watching how each responded to life in Beijing differently. The athletes and journalists rarely left the Olympic venues to explore the city, but when they did, I was more than happy to act as their guide.

During the first week of competition, I answered questions for photographers at the road cycling course (and ended up doing quite a bit of computer troubleshooting as well). A few days after road cycling, I transferred to indoor volleyball, where I worked as a flash quotes reporter, interviewing athletes in the mixed zone alongside reporters from around the world. Often, we had to work through translators — it was really an experience unlike any other.

Q: Can I work at Vancouver 2010 or London 2012?

A: Honestly, I’m not quite sure. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) required the Beijing Organizing Committee (BOCOG) to hire native English speakers from overseas only because very few were qualified in China. Fortunately for the next Winter and Summer Games, that’s not the case — both will be held in countries where English is the official language. If you’re an expert with relevant experience, feel free to contact VANOC or LOCOG for more information about joining their staffs during the Games. I’d certainly recommend giving it a shot — working at the Olympics is an experience like no other.

I have a few regrets about my experience in China. Some are less significant, and were only realized when I read the United Airlines magazine on the flight back to the States. I can’t believe I spent two months in Beijing and only visited half of the locations they suggested in their cover article. I never made it to the restaurant, Made in China, but I certainly heard great things. My biggest regret, however, is not taking more time to travel around the country. I visited Shanghai and Tianjin, and made a side trip to the suburbs with Vincent Laforet, but I really wish I had taken more time in the beginning of my trip to explore other parts of the country. Some friends flew to see pandas in their native habitat near Chengdu, or visited the Terracotta Army at Xi’an. I’d love to visit China again at some point in the near future — but I don’t think Beijing will make it on my itinerary.

This marks my final post to Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics. Thanks for visiting, and feel free to continue sending questions or adding your comments to individual posts.

Beijing, USA: The Changing Face of China

I arrived in Beijing only a month ago, and I’m already seeing the city change. China is welcoming the Western world with open arms — or at least their economy is. Just five years ago, I imagine Beijing was in a much different state. I wouldn’t need to walk 15 minutes just to feel like I was in China, assuming I wasn’t trying to communicate with the locals.

But today, the Chinese capital is a hodgepodge of Western retailers, and, to a smaller extent, Western cultures. I lose count of the number of KFC and McDonalds restaurants I see each day, each bursting at the seams with Chinese loading up on fried chicken and hamburgers. “One World One Dream” — is that the American dream? I visited a Cold Stone Creamery last night — I couldn’t believe my eyes — it was right next to an Auntie Anne’s pretzels, and both were within walking distance of my hotel. Prices at Cold Stone were comparable to the States, so I could have easily fed myself lunch for a week for the cost of my 50 Yuan (about $7.30) Love It creation. (Take subway line 10 to Haidianhuangzhuang if you feel compelled to see for yourself).

The Olympics have also presented Beijing with an opportunity to “clean up” a lot of the city’s Hutongs, the alleyways often inhabited by the lower-middle class. But the city is losing a lot of its character in the process. A Hutong near Tiananmen Square was recently leveled to make room for a brand new commercial village, set to open just in time for the Olympics. Peering over the fence used to keep locals out until its official opening, I was reminded of the “traditional Chinese village” I visited in the Beijing suburbs a few weeks back.

As much as Beijingers seem to be eating up Western fast food, many appear considerably less interested in Western people and languages. I keep hearing about how friendly the locals are, and I’ve witnessed it myself on several occasions, but the only people that seem interested in me are those trying to learn English. Also, keep in mind that this isn’t Europe — there won’t usually be English menus, and the only locals who know any could be your concierge and the person trying to scam you out of $1,400 for Olympics tickets on Craigslist.

Chinese Food: Flexibility is Key

I admit — I’m a picky eater. I don’t know why I don’t like onions, but until I came to Beijing, I’d pick them out like I was performing microsurgery. Beijing helped me learn to be flexible — and to just eat the darn onions. A couple friends traveling with me were vegetarians before they came, and they’ve learned to be much more flexible as well. When it comes to dining out in Beijing, there are a couple things to keep in mind:

1. Don’t eat salad — I’ve mentioned the drinking water before, but eating anything raw washed in it could result in some pretty nasty stomach issues — I’ve seen it happen to several friends so far, and salad is definitely not worth the risk.

2. Reconsider vegetarianism — Since salads are out, it can be extremely difficult to find a variety of dishes cooked without meat — even tofu in Beijing is served in a meat sauce, and the green beans are cooked with beef.

3. Always carry toilet paper — I’ve found myself sick to my stomach a couple times, and most bathrooms don’t stock toilet paper. Napkins are also hard to come by so toilet paper can be used at the dinner table as well.

4. Decide what you want in advance — If you are a picky eater, have your concierge write down your favorite dishes in Chinese for you to show your waiter, as many restaurants don’t have English or picture menus.

5. McDonalds is always an option — I don’t eat fast food in the States, but I’ve already visited McDonalds twice and KFC once in the past week. It’s good, cheap, and familiar.

6. Try new things — China is a great place to rediscover your taste buds, and Lazy Susans make sharing dishes easy. Order a variety and sample everything on the table. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, head to the Donghuamen Night Market and sample some scorpions or seahorses. This is also a great place to shoot some exotic eats.

7. Carry Tums and Pepto-Bismol — If you can’t afford to be out of commission for a few days, these may be your only alternative. Be prepared to get sick once or twice, and pick up any medication you need before you leave home.

8. Order something else — You’ll probably come across a dish you just can’t stomach. Luckily, food is cheap here, so feel free to point to a neighbor’s dish if you’re not happy with your order.

9. Eat like a local — Hot pot (like fondue) and Peking duck are favorites in Beijing — available at hundreds of restaurants in the city. Try the Peking duck at Quan Ju De, it’s out of this world.

10. Don’t be turned off by low prices — Some of the best meals I’ve had here have cost less than 20 CNY (about $3). Just because a restaurant’s prices are low doesn’t mean the quality is as well.

Houhai Lake

With dozens of shops, restaurants, and bars, Houhai (pronounced "Ho Hi") is swarming with tourists and expats — but it’s still a must see both during the day and at night. I’ve visited twice already, and plan to go back many times. Food and drinks can be pricey (40-50 CNY for a beer), but it’s worth it for the live music, lake front seating, and lively atmosphere. On the night of my visit, an organized group of Chinese seniors gathered by the lake with a boom box to practice traditional ballroom dancing — I’ve heard that they may even do this every night! Houhai, located in Beijing’s northwest, is certain to be a hot spot among visiting journalists.

Wow That’s Good Food!

If your idea of a good Chinese meal involves rounding up the family for a trip to Panda Express, you’re in for a real treat. Before my first meal in Beijing, it never really hit that I was actually in China. Our bus from the airport drove on brand new highways, passing BMW sedans, several Kentucky Fried Chicken restaurants, and even an IKEA. But once I stepped foot in a Chinese restaurant in Beijing, I no longer had any question that this was a whole new world. Our first meal was cheap — the equivalent of two dollars including a drink, entrée and dessert — but with no English menu or a single photograph to point at, the ordering process really made the experience unique. I was relieved to find that my attempt at ordering “chicken with rice” was actually a success.

Last night I could honestly say that was the best two bucks I’d ever spent… that, of course, changed with today’s lunch. A single U.S. dollar (about 7 CNY) bought my lunch, complete with tofu, rice, soup, fried chicken, and an enormous bottle of beer. My first two meals were both on a university campus, but great deals can also be found elsewhere in the city — as long as you’re willing to be fairly flexible with what you eat.