Reflecting on Beijing 2008

I’ve been back in the US for about four days now, and believe it or not — I’m beginning to miss China. The politics, lifestyle, even the food I can live without, but the people — I miss the locals most of all. There have been many questions about my experience — from the immigration officer at the Chicago airport (it went beyond the obligatory business/pleasure question) to my family and friends back home — I’ve answered them several times before, but I will answer them here as well.

Q: Well, how was Beijing? Should I go?

A: After spending two months living in Beijing, I’d hesitate to recommend the city to tourists looking to soak up Chinese history and culture. Sure — there’s plenty of that in Beijing, but there’s so much more to China that you won’t be able to see through Beijing’s environmental and propaganda haze. I came to tolerate life in the city towards the end of my journey, but only because the Olympics were in town, and many familiar Western conveniences became available, such as an Apple Store and Cold Stone. Unless you speak Mandarin, communication with locals is almost always impossible. Some are learning limited English, but are unable to pronounce words correctly due to a lack of native speakers to practice with.

For photographers, Beijing can be a great place to shoot on clear days, but unfortunately, the sun only breaks through the clouds every so often. If you’re only in town for a week, you may not have a single day without a hazy blanket to get in the way of you and that perfect shot. The Chinese make incredible subjects, and are generally more open to photographers than Westerners. Unfortunately, I think much of this comes from a fear of confrontation, especially when they’re unable to communicate with the foreigner behind the camera.

Q: What was it like to work at the Olympics?

A: I can’t even begin to describe the Olympic experience – it was so incredible to be able to work alongside the world’s top photographers, reporters, and athletes. Just being around the athletes was a thrill – there were so many, from almost every country in the world. There were also plenty of opportunities for staff and journalists to mingle with athletes outside of the competition venues, especially towards the end of the Games.

I had a fantastic time working at the Olympics, and would do it again in a heartbeat. I’ve never been around people from so many diverse cultures at one time, and I really enjoyed watching how each responded to life in Beijing differently. The athletes and journalists rarely left the Olympic venues to explore the city, but when they did, I was more than happy to act as their guide.

During the first week of competition, I answered questions for photographers at the road cycling course (and ended up doing quite a bit of computer troubleshooting as well). A few days after road cycling, I transferred to indoor volleyball, where I worked as a flash quotes reporter, interviewing athletes in the mixed zone alongside reporters from around the world. Often, we had to work through translators — it was really an experience unlike any other.

Q: Can I work at Vancouver 2010 or London 2012?

A: Honestly, I’m not quite sure. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) required the Beijing Organizing Committee (BOCOG) to hire native English speakers from overseas only because very few were qualified in China. Fortunately for the next Winter and Summer Games, that’s not the case — both will be held in countries where English is the official language. If you’re an expert with relevant experience, feel free to contact VANOC or LOCOG for more information about joining their staffs during the Games. I’d certainly recommend giving it a shot — working at the Olympics is an experience like no other.

I have a few regrets about my experience in China. Some are less significant, and were only realized when I read the United Airlines magazine on the flight back to the States. I can’t believe I spent two months in Beijing and only visited half of the locations they suggested in their cover article. I never made it to the restaurant, Made in China, but I certainly heard great things. My biggest regret, however, is not taking more time to travel around the country. I visited Shanghai and Tianjin, and made a side trip to the suburbs with Vincent Laforet, but I really wish I had taken more time in the beginning of my trip to explore other parts of the country. Some friends flew to see pandas in their native habitat near Chengdu, or visited the Terracotta Army at Xi’an. I’d love to visit China again at some point in the near future — but I don’t think Beijing will make it on my itinerary.

This marks my final post to Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics. Thanks for visiting, and feel free to continue sending questions or adding your comments to individual posts.

Have Some Free Time?

Most of the photographers I’ve met have been shooting back-to-back events every day since the Games began almost two weeks ago. Rising early and working late into the evening, any free time they have is spent catching up on needed sleep. There are a few exceptions, however. For photographers with some downtime or those staying in Beijing until next week, here’s my top five list of things to do and shoot in the area, far from the Olympic Green.

1. Take the train to Tianjin — The coastal city of Tianjin is located 120 km east of Beijing, but a new high-speed train will zip you from the capital to the coast in just under 30 minutes. You’ll need at least half a day to explore, especially if you plan to shoot at the “beach.” The ocean excursion is pricey (about 160 CNY r/t including taxi and light rail), but the incredible pictures you’ll be able to make there make it well worth the time and money.

2. Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City — Several photographers I’ve spoken to haven’t even had time to visit the world’s largest public square, or the Forbidden City. If you have a few hours free, visit both, but if you can only spare an hour or two, head to Tiananmen Square to shoot tourists and locals enjoying the recently constructed Olympic displays.

3. Eat Chinese food — Under immense pressure to stay healthy so they can produce images, experienced photographers are avoiding eating anything outside of the media village, Main Press Center, or Olympic venues. While this makes sense, they’re really missing out on some incredible Chinese food. Peking duck roll ups (available for 15 Yuan at the MPC) aren’t going to cut it — experience the real thing at Quanjude, or visit a hole in the wall eatery to enjoy Chinese food at its best (and cheapest).

4. Wander the city on your own — Escape the Olympics bubble to meet locals in the hutongs, or roam the streets with a camera in the older parts of town. Don’t worry about having a plan — take the subway away from the Olympic Green, and get off at a random stop. If you don’t like what you see, simply hop back on and go somewhere else — you’ll also be able to make great pictures on the train.

5. Bring back some goodies — You can’t return from China without gifts for family and friends, so visit one of the city’s markets to bargain hard for souvenirs. Jade and pearls are very popular, as are calligraphy paintings, chopstick sets, and knock off clothing. Visit the Pearl Marketfor pearls (and sometimes jade) and the Tianya market (literally a few feet away) for everything else. Tianya is also a great place to shoot locals gathered around televisions to watch the Olympics.

A Master At Work

Many budding photographers find work as assistants to those well established in the field before setting off on their own. A young photographer myself, I decided to take this opportunity at the Olympics to meet photographers and observe how they work, and I’m always amazed at how much I’m able to learn. Yesterday, I shadowed former New York Times staffer Vincent Laforet, currently on assignment for Newsweek.

Vince told me about a shot he had in mind several days ago, and asked where we could go to make it work. After a dozen phone calls and text messages to a translator familiar with the area, we settled on the town of Changping, located in the Changping District of Beijing, a suburb northwest of the city. The translator and I met at my hotel, hired a cab for the night, and headed over to pick up Vince near the Olympic Green.

After what seemed like an hour of driving, we arrived at a village near the Ming Tombs, a popular tourist attraction. We wandered down alleyways for 20 minutes, trying to talk to locals and searching for Vince’s shot — Chinese gathered around a television to watch the Olympics in a rural area near Beijing. We saw some homes that might have worked, but decided to keep looking.

A few minutes later, a man wearing a volunteer shirt approached us on his moped, and our translator asked him for advice on where to shoot. Our translator later identified him as the town’s leader — to my surprise, he was incredibly helpful, and seemed to have a general understanding of why we were there. We began to follow the “volunteer” as curious locals joined our entourage. Eventually, Vince settled on a group of three people eating dinner and watching television in a tiny grocery store.

I liked the shot, but it still wasn’t exactly what he was looking for, so we grabbed our cabbie and headed back to Beijing a few minutes later. After leaving the store, we noticed that an even larger crowd had formed — about 20 people in total, including a well-dressed woman who looked very out of place. The woman was asking many questions, and our translator later identified her as a leader of the Changping district, who had been informed of our arrival.

By the time we reached the city, our cab fare had reached 278 CNY (about $42) — most of my fares in Beijing are less than one tenth of that amount, and our translator was fascinated by the high number on the meter. 330 CNY later (luckily, Vince had paid), I arrived back at my hotel, to prepare for another day in the Olympics bubble. In the end, Vince wasn’t able to get the picture he had wanted, but we plan to give it another shot in a few days.

Visit Newsweek’s “Visions of China” blog for Laforet’s in-depth account of the evening.

Spaniard Wins Men’s Cycling Road Race

Riding nearly 250 kilometers, with steep climbs through dense smog in the mountains near Beijing, Samuel Sanchez of Spain came out of the race with one of the first gold medals of the 2008 Beijing Olympics. The 6.5-hour race was grueling for cyclists and photographers alike, with shooters from around the world working all day in the heat, required to wear heavy vests while shooting from photo positions. Photographers moved from location to location, searching for the best angle as cyclists rode seven laps around a section of the Great Wall.

At past Olympics, white Canon lenses dominated photo positions at the venues — but this year, with the release of their D3 digital SLR, Nikon is making a significant comeback. Former Canon shooters have made the switch to Nikon in order to stay on the cutting edge, taking advantage of improved focusing and better image quality. Photographers packed the photo workroom and sideline positions today during the most popular road cycling event. The women’s road race will follow tomorrow, with individual time trials to be held on Wednesday.

Kodak, Nikon and Canon Host Party for Photographers

With athletes representing 200 countries at the Olympics, the Main Press Center is a melting pot for top photographers from around the world. Three of the biggest names in cameras united to host a party for accredited photographers at the MPC tonight, bringing the world’s top sports shooters together to enjoy some popular Chinese finger foods. With less than 48 hours to go before Opening Ceremony, photographers trickled in throughout the evening, already scrambling to scout venues, prepare equipment, and get some rest before 14 days of back-to-back assignments. Old friends took some time to catch up, and first-time Olympics shooters shook hands and swapped cards with the best in the business. I’m starting to realize that I’m here — at the Olympics — it doesn’t get much bigger than this.

Working in the MPC

Venue Media Centers will provide photographers with essential services such as Internet access, pay phones, beverages, and universal power outlets. Photo lockers and laptop computer cable locks are also available at no charge for daily use. When not transmitting images from location, photographers can take advantage of additional services in the Main Press Center, including Apple Mac Pro workstations, film processing, restaurants, shops, a fitness center, library, hairdresser, and even a massage parlor providing free massages. Canon, Nikon, and Kodak also provide services in the MPC.

Your first stop at the MPC should be the rate card office, as wired and wireless Internet connections at the MPC and venues require a rate card for use. If you happen to arrive at a VMC without a rate card, your only option may be to return to the MPC to purchase one. Pay phone cards and China Mobile vending machines are offered at other venues, but rate cards must be purchased at the MPC. There’s also a McDonalds outside the MPC photo workroom, so you can get your Big Mac fix without exiting the Olympic Green.

Canon and Nikon Professional Services in Beijing

As with previous Olympics, CPS and NPS will offer loan, repair, and technical services at the Main Press Center during the Games. Photographers will have access to camera bodies and lenses while taking advantage of free equipment repair services. CPS and NPS will also have limited loaner equipment available for short-term evaluation.

CPS will be available to accredited professional photographers and CPS members during the Olympics at the MPC in Beijing, and at the Qingdao Sailing Press Center and Hong Kong Equestrian Press Center. MPC services will be available beginning at 9 a.m. on Monday, August 4 and will run through the end of the Games on August 28. CPS will be open from 9:00-17:00 through August 7, with normal hours of 7:00-23:00 beginning on August 8.

NPS will operate on the same schedule, with regular hours (7:00-23:00) beginning on August 7 instead of August 8. Because of import restrictions in China, loaner equipment from both CPS and NPS will be in shorter supply than in the past, so depending on availability, bodies and lenses may only be allowed out on loan while a photographer’s equipment is being repaired, and not for the duration of the Games. Photographers should visit CPS and NPS in the MPC with any questions, as representatives may not respond to emails until after the Olympics.

If you’re a professional photographer not covering the Olympics and would like more information on joining CPS and NPS for free equipment loans, rush repair services, and service discounts, email CPS or visit the NPS website.

A selection equipment available at the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City. Photo provided by NPS.

IOC Addresses Internet Censorship Issue

If you’re not in Beijing, you may be tired of hearing about restricted Internet access. But for those of us here, or arriving in the next few days, it’s definitely a hot issue. Kevan Gosper, the International Olympic Committee Press Commission Chairman, held a press conference today to discuss the issue with journalists. Gosper recognized that the Internet access restrictions that journalists are currently facing are not within IOC guidelines, but stated, “A working group has been established with BOCOG to start examining sites one by one.”

In a statement released yesterday, the IOC said “the media should be seeing a noticeable difference in accessibility to web sites that they need to report on the Olympic Games.” It’s clear that the issue is not being overlooked now, but I think it should have definitely been resolved before journalists began to arrive. Reporting on the Olympics has already begun, and the Internet has been a key reporting tool in the 21st century.

In a separate press conference held on July 30, Sun Weide, Vice-Director of Media and Communications for BOCOG, stated, “we will be providing full access to the Internet to facilitate your reporting during the Olympic Games. Your reporting job during the Olympic Games will not be affected in any way.” But when asked about whether the government would be monitoring foreign journalists’ Internet access, he failed to provide a clear response. “The use of the Internet in the MPC follows the rules and regulations of the IOC. We provide you with the facility for the use of Internet for your reporting.” As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, for complete peace of mind and unrestricted access, only surf the Web and send email after connecting to your corporate VPN.

Source: Olympic News Service.

CNN Report: Hotels To Monitor Internet Use

With a little over a week until Opening Ceremony, the spotlight on Beijing is shining brighter than ever. I’ve been cautious on the Web, only posting to this blog through a secure Virtual Private Network (VPN) connection with an IP address in the States. Was it overkill? Apparently not. A CNN article recently confirmed my fears — that without an encrypted connection, it’s very likely that someone could be watching my every move. According to U.S. Senator Sam Brownback, the government has ordered hotels to spy on their guests, subjecting them to “invasive intelligence gathering”. This report has not yet been independently confirmed.

If you’re traveling to China with sensitive information on your computer, it would be best not to connect your personal computer to the Internet at all. If that’s not an option, only surf the Web through a secure VPN connection. If you don’t have access to a corporate VPN, I’d suggest signing up for a personalVPN from WiTopia before you go to China. Another advantage of using a VPN to surf the Web — the Great Firewall of China falls down in your own little bubble.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, access to this blog, among others, is blocked from within China. If you’re setting up a personal blog before your trip, consider using Blogger.com, which as of now is accessible from Beijing. If you wish to view our Beijing Blog from within China, you’ll need to connect using a VPN or through web-based proxy such as PHProxy. Note that while you can use proxy websites to visit other blocked pages as well, I’m only providing this information so you can access the content on our Beijing Blog. You may also wish to print out relevant posts before you leave for Beijing, so you have a hard copy with you at all times. You’ll find it difficult to make printouts in China, as hotel business centers will often only allow you to print from their own computers.

Thanks for the heads up, Eric and Kyle.

Blog Featured on SportsShooter.com

I wrote a column for the July issue of the Sports Shooter newsletter, titled “Squatty Potties to Blank Stares – On The Ground in Beijing”. SportsShooter.com is an online community for professional sports photographers, so the column focused on posts that would be of interest to photographers coming to cover the Olympics. I also go into further detail about some of the topics we’ve covered here, so if you’re headed to Beijing, please be sure to check it out. The newsletter also includes a video about packing for the Olympics by Sports Shooter founder Robert Hanashiro, some tips from Beijinger David McIntyre, and Beijing Olympics Predictions from photographers heading to Beijing to cover the Games.