CNN Report: Hotels To Monitor Internet Use

With a little over a week until Opening Ceremony, the spotlight on Beijing is shining brighter than ever. I’ve been cautious on the Web, only posting to this blog through a secure Virtual Private Network (VPN) connection with an IP address in the States. Was it overkill? Apparently not. A CNN article recently confirmed my fears — that without an encrypted connection, it’s very likely that someone could be watching my every move. According to U.S. Senator Sam Brownback, the government has ordered hotels to spy on their guests, subjecting them to “invasive intelligence gathering”. This report has not yet been independently confirmed.

If you’re traveling to China with sensitive information on your computer, it would be best not to connect your personal computer to the Internet at all. If that’s not an option, only surf the Web through a secure VPN connection. If you don’t have access to a corporate VPN, I’d suggest signing up for a personalVPN from WiTopia before you go to China. Another advantage of using a VPN to surf the Web — the Great Firewall of China falls down in your own little bubble.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, access to this blog, among others, is blocked from within China. If you’re setting up a personal blog before your trip, consider using Blogger.com, which as of now is accessible from Beijing. If you wish to view our Beijing Blog from within China, you’ll need to connect using a VPN or through web-based proxy such as PHProxy. Note that while you can use proxy websites to visit other blocked pages as well, I’m only providing this information so you can access the content on our Beijing Blog. You may also wish to print out relevant posts before you leave for Beijing, so you have a hard copy with you at all times. You’ll find it difficult to make printouts in China, as hotel business centers will often only allow you to print from their own computers.

Thanks for the heads up, Eric and Kyle.

Blog Featured on SportsShooter.com

I wrote a column for the July issue of the Sports Shooter newsletter, titled “Squatty Potties to Blank Stares – On The Ground in Beijing”. SportsShooter.com is an online community for professional sports photographers, so the column focused on posts that would be of interest to photographers coming to cover the Olympics. I also go into further detail about some of the topics we’ve covered here, so if you’re headed to Beijing, please be sure to check it out. The newsletter also includes a video about packing for the Olympics by Sports Shooter founder Robert Hanashiro, some tips from Beijinger David McIntyre, and Beijing Olympics Predictions from photographers heading to Beijing to cover the Games.

English in Beijing Not Quite Right

There’s no question that Beijing has gone to great lengths to make the city far more appealing to foreigners, but somehow hiring a native English speaker to help translate signs was overlooked. Billions have been spent on construction and other efforts to modernize the city, but the broken English seen in print throughout the city will leave a lasting impression on visitors, long after the Olympic dream has faded.

I’ve begun to stop noticing grammatical errors, translating subconsciously, but occasionally I’m completely unable to decipher notices and even some store signs. To me, it seems like such a simple fix — native English speakers should have been hired to travel throughout the city as consultants, editing signs, brochures, and museum placards. So many times I’ve wanted to pull someone aside to show them that something’s just not right with their sign — there’s still time to fix many of these errors — but getting through to the right person is nearly impossible.

Found It: Spray Deodorant

That’s right folks — after weeks of searching and even a couple close calls, I’ve finally found a bona fide can of Axe body spray. If this is your first visit to my Beijing Olympics blog, I’ll fill you in on the significance of today’s discovery before you head elsewhere thinking you’ve come to the wrong place. I packed a single bottle of deodorant, hoping it would suffice for my two-month stay in China. Little did I know that I would smell like tobacco after an innocent taxicab ride, sweat to the point where I’d have no choice but to find some A/C stat, and end up stinking so badly by late afternoon that a second shower every day was no longer optional. Two showers means two coats of deodorant each day, and I’m running low after only a month.

Resting in Shanghai, I decided that my mission for the day was to find some deodorant while I still had a moment of free time before the Olympics. I entered Watson’s pharmacy, which also has locations in Beijing, and began my usual charades routine, hoping someone would figure out that I was asking for deodorant. The clerk first brought me to an aisle of razors (do men shave their armpits in China?) before presenting the Holy Grail — two shelves of imported deodorant. I found a bottle of Axe (it was identical to the bottle I’m currently using) and was more than happy to hand over 68 CNY ($10) to help absolve my fear of having smelly armpits.

Tianya Jewelry Market: Beijing’s Best Kept Secret

This brand new complex opened its doors on April 28, literally steps from the famous HongQiao Pearl Market. Tianya offers goods identical to its neighbor, likely purchased from the same suppliers, but because business is slow, prices are significantly lower. Housed in a generic charcoal colored building, you’ll only find Tianya if you want to. A large vertical banner hangs on the structure, but can be easily missed, as the market’s exterior resembles a modern office building, without a hint of what’s inside. Finding Tianya is easy once you know it’s there — after you exit through the rear doors of the Pearl Market, a 15-meter walk brings you to one of the market’s entrances, marked only by a pair of Chinese characters. Another entrance is located next to a well-marked coffee shop.

The market itself is significantly larger, cleaner, and less crowded than the Pearl Market, and is without a doubt my new favorite place to shop in Beijing. From toys in the lower basement to upscale jewelry stores six floors above, you’ll find everything from electronics to knockoff clothing to pearls on the floors in between. There’s even a great food court, serving traditional Chinese food at rock bottom prices on the lower basement level (chicken fried rice at lunch cost me about a dollar).

While vendors are more reserved at Tianya (you won’t need to worry about them grabbing at you if you try to walk off), one vendor pulled the compassion card, telling me that I was her first customer all day (and this was at 7 p.m., just when the market was about to close). Because I counted fewer than a dozen customers on all seven floors during my hour-long visit, I believed her and ended up buying something I didn’t want (but still at a great price).

The Pearl Market is definitely worth a visit; so bargain very low there — 30 CNY (about $4.50) for a Polo shirt or large leather wallet is a reasonable price — then head across the street to Tianya to get it for less. Pearl Market vendors claim that they’ll be doubling prices for the Olympic crowd, but I suspect vendors at Tianya will still be willing to sell at just above cost if necessary. The Tianya market is open from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m. every day, and is located about one block from the Tian Tan Dong Men (Line 5) metro stop.

Paper or Plastic: Paying in Beijing

I’ve used my credit cards only twice since I arrived – the first time was at the Hard Rock Cafe (MasterCard), and the second was at the flagship Olympic store (American Express). Both times, I wish I had had enough cash to cover my expenses, rather than pay the foreign transaction fee (about 2%), but if you’re coming to Beijing on an expense account, you may have no choice but to use your plastic whenever possible.

As I’m sure you’ve gathered from the endless marketing, Visa is the official card of the 2008 Olympics, and will be the only card accepted at Olympic venues. In most situations, you’ll be using cash far more often than plastic, but if credit cards are accepted by a particular merchant, they’ll likely accept the big three — Visa, MasterCard and American Express.

If you do plan on using your cards in Beijing, call the number on the back before you leave home to inform your bank that you’ll be using your card in China. If you don’t, it’s almost guaranteed that a representative will try to get in touch with you, and if you’re not using your U.S. cell phone, will likely fail.

Through a partnership with China Construction Bank, Bank of America cardholders can withdraw from CCB ATM machines without paying service fees. There are no currency conversion fees and no foreign transaction fees – I make withdrawals every few days, and with today’s exchange rate, $14.69 will be debited from your account for each 100 CNY withdrawn. I have not had a single problem withdrawing from an ATM in China with my BOA debit card, though colleagues have run into issues with cards issued by other banks. Be sure to inform your bank that you’ll be traveling as well and have a backup plan (a friend with a BOA account) in case you’re unable to make withdrawals when you arrive. Consider bringing several hundred dollars in cash as well — cash exchange rates are comparable to those you’ll get from the ATM.

Since you’ll be using cash for everything from taxis to dinner to market purchases, do your best to get a receipt whenever possible, especially for purchased goods. Taxis print receipts automatically when the driver turns off the meter (assuming the printer is working), but you may need to ask other merchants for a receipt. If you’re dining with a group and paying cash, request that orders be placed individually on separate tickets before your waiter begins to take your order. Restaurants are not used to doing this now, but I imagine they’ll catch on after a few days — it may also help to have your hotel write instructions in Mandarin.

A Long Weekend in Shanghai

After several weeks in Beijing, I was ready for a change of scenery. Some friends and I decided to take the Z5 overnight train for a few days in China’s largest city. There are about a dozen overnight trains serving the Beijing to Shanghai route, but for 499 CNY (about $73), the Z trains provide direct service and a soft sleeper bed that was surprisingly more comfortable than the bed in my hotel. The train itself is luxurious, and offers four full-length beds in each room, a dining car serving Chinese food and a variety of drinks at reasonable prices, and most importantly — peace and quiet for the 11.5-hour ride.

Like Beijing, Shanghai is plagued with hazy smog, making it difficult or even impossible to see from one end to the other of this metropolis of 18.5 million. Much of the city is ultra-modern (the famous Pudong skyline was almost nonexistent 15 years ago), and offers all of the conveniences of home without leaving China. If you want to spend your off days touring temples and other historic sites, you may want to save Shanghai for another time, but if you need to escape the hustle and bustle of Beijing, a couple days in the “New York of China” should do the trick.

If you decide to visit, stay in Puxi, on the older side of the Huangpu River. My friends and I are staying in a three-bedroom apartment near the Jing’an Temple — the location is great, and at 780 CNY per night (about $115) for the entire apartment, the price cannot be beat. Our host, Salo Homes, can also arrange a tour guide (300 CNY per day) and Chinese cooking lessons in your own kitchen (four-hour lessons cost 150 CNY plus ingredients).

Pudong, Shanghai’s modern business district, is definitely worth a visit. While pricey at 150 CNY, a visit to the top of Shanghai’s famous Oriental Pearl Tower will provide a spectacular view from 1148 feet off the ground, even if somewhat limited by the city’s dense smog. This is the best way to get an idea of the city’s enormity — hundreds if not thousands of colossal buildings seem to continue on for miles in all directions.

Because Shanghai is the international business capital of China, far
more Chinese speak English, including taxi drivers, so finding your way
around can be much easier than in Beijing. Round off your day with a
Japanese Teppanyaki dinner (all you can eat and drink) and a drink in
the world’s highest bar (at the Grand Hyatt in Pudong).

A note on the photos: smog is just as much of a problem in Shanghai as it is in Beijing, but after applying auto levels in Photoshop, added contrast causes images of the skyline to inaccurately represent the dense air.

The Temple of Heaven

This small circular temple is one of the most recognizable and frequently photographed structures in Beijing. The Temple of Heaven is by no means tiny, but significantly smaller than one would assume from looking at pictures, often shot from close distance, lens towards the heavens. The structure is impressive — colors appear more vibrant after the Temple underwent restoration before the Olympics.

Allow about two hours for a visit, and spend some time walking through the adjacent common areas and gardens. Locals gather not for tourists, but to practice dancing and singing, and to play Mahjong and Jianzi, a Chinese version of Hacky Sack. The Temple of Heaven is located across the street from the Pearl Market — plan to arrive at the Temple in the late morning, and then visit the market after lunch. The Temple of Heaven and Hongqiao Pearl Market are both located near the Tian Tan Dong Men (Line 5) metro stop.

Before You Leave Home

There are some things you simply won’t be able to do from Beijing. Many personal hygiene items are especially hard to come by here, so be sure to pack plenty before you leave home.

1. Unlock your cell phone — Sure, you can buy a mobile phone once you get to Beijing, but if you already use a GSM phone in the States, call your wireless provider and ask for an unlock code to use your phone with a China Mobile SIM card. While you have them on the line, be sure to ask if your model is GSM-900 compatible.

2. Visit your doctor — If you take prescription medication, carry your pills in a bottle with your prescription clearly marked. Expect to get sick at least once, so ask your doctor what he or she recommends for dealing with stomach issues.

3. Bring a copy of your eyeglass prescription — I dropped $300 on a backup pair of glasses before leaving home, only to find a similar pair here for about $15. I bought a pair of glasses and a pair of prescription sunglasses for 110 CNY each at the Silk Market. Some of my colleagues have had issues with the smog, so eye drops may also come in handy.

4. Load up on deodorant — We take it for granted in the States, but deodorant simply isn’t available for purchase here. With hot weather and long workdays, you’ll be glad you remembered to pack some.

5. Pack some Purell — Almost as important as deodorant, I reach for my hand sanitizer several times daily — It’s especially handy when you want to munch on tasty street food and there isn’t a sink in sight. Grab plenty of the pocket sized and larger containers, and pack extras for friends.

6. Bring plenty of business cards — They’re very important in China, and if you haven’t done so already, have your cards printed in both English and Chinese. Many Chinese don’t read or speak a lick of English, so your cards will be useless if not also written in Chinese.

7. Buy a Slingbox — These clever contraptions broadcast your cable television signal to your computer over the Internet, allowing you to watch American TV from anywhere in the world. The Slingbox Pro includes a built-in cable tuner, so there’s no need for a cable box.

8. Duplicate your passport — Bring both hard and soft copies of your passport and visa. Be sure to snap a picture of your passport and email it to yourself before you leave, so you can prove your identity in an emergency. Also consider leaving copies with a relative so they can fax it to your hotel if necessary.

9. Don’t forget your OIAC — If you’re coming to cover the games, pack your Olympic Identity and Accreditation Card in your carry on, and email copies to yourself as well. The card acts as your visa and is very difficult to replace if lost or left behind.

10. Buy some guidebooks — The only guidebook I use on a daily basis is the Eyewitness Travel Beijing Pocket Map & Guide — but I’d be lost without it. The subway and city maps are a necessity and the book is small enough to carry in my pocket. English guidebooks are very difficult to find here and will likely be out of stock once Westerners begin to invade the city.

Giant Pandas at the Beijing Zoo

You don’t need to leave the States to see a panda, but 20 yuan and a trip to the Beijing Zoo will allow you to see the furry creatures on their home turf. According to Xinhua news agency, fewer than 2000 pandas remain, with all but 27 living in China. The pandas at the Beijing Zoo seem to be treated well, but other animals live in far less desirable conditions — I went to see the pandas first and left soon after.

For photographers hoping to capture pandas in a more natural habitat, head to Wolong National Nature Reserve in Sichuan Province, home to 128 pandas. Conditions at the zoo are not favorable for photographers, with thick, dirty glass separating the animals from the public, and hundreds of tourists fighting for a view. I’d never seen a live panda before my visit, but was surprised to see that the bears have a dirtier coat than what I imagined, with their fur an off-white color.

If you’re headed to the zoo during your visit to Beijing, plan to arrive around 9:30 when the pandas are still munching on bamboo — I’ve been told that they’re far less active in the afternoon. Allow about an hour for your visit — if you have more time to spare, check out the Zoo Market above the bus station across the street — it’s a hit with the locals.